Exploring the Serenity of Taiping Mountain: A Millennial Meditation Journey at Dai's Southern "Little Mount Tai" 寻幽太平山:岱南小泰山的千年清心之旅*

in r2cornell •  15 days ago 

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Exploring the Serenity of Taiping Mountain: A Millennial Meditation Journey at Dai's Southern "Little Mount Tai"

East of Xiayang Town in Daiyue District lies an unassuming yet spiritually radiant hill—Taiping Mountain. Though less than 100 meters in height, this humble peak has earned renown as a "marvel of southern Dai" in the Tai’an County Annals, thanks to the Qingxin Taoist Temple nestled on its slopes, first built during the Ming Dynasty. As morning mist lingered, I embarked on this journey to trace ancient whispers.

First Steps at the Mountain Gate: A Retreat Through Time on Stone Steps

Crossing the fields east of Wangshidian Village, Taiping Mountain emerged like an emerald screen. Ascending winding stone steps flanked by ancient, twisting cypresses and wild chrysanthemums sprouting from crevices, the mountain breeze carried the fragrance of pine into my lungs. Midway, a Taoist temple with vermilion walls and gray tiles suddenly appeared. The weathered plaque reading "Qingxin Temple" still exuded the rustic charm of the Zhengde era (1506–1521). Locals call this place "Little Mount Tai"—a miniature replica of the sacred mountain’s layout, yet radiating its own transcendent serenity.

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Quexing Pavilion: Where Scholarship and Faith Intertwine

Entering the temple, the first sight was Quexing Pavilion, its upturned eaves adorned with bronze bells that chimed like murmured sutras in the wind. Inside, the statue of Quexing (the God of Examinations) stood poised with a brush, his foot atop a mythical turtle. Though weathered, his gaze retained an austere dignity. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, scholars flocked here to pray for success in imperial exams; today, red prayer ribbons left by students still flutter before incense burners. From the pavilion, the foothills unfolded like a chessboard of wheat fields, while the distant peaks of Mount Tai loomed faintly, as if marking the threshold between heaven and earth.

Before the Goddess Hall: Mortal Hopes and Mountain Zen

Behind the remnants of an ancient opera stage lay the bustling Nainai Hall (Hall of Goddesses). Inside, the Goddess of Mount Tai gazed down with benevolent eyes, flanked by the Goddess of Vision holding a mirror and the Goddess of Child-Bearing cradling an infant. Amid swirling incense, these deities guarded mortal wishes. An elderly temple caretaker served mountain tea, recounting the vibrant temple fair on the 15th day of the third lunar month: villagers parading colorful umbrellas and statues in mountain-circling rituals, torchlit processions glowing beneath stars. As drizzle suddenly fell, raindrops cascaded from eaves, and the rustling foliage seemed to echo divine replies to earthly pleas.

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Northern Return: A Poetic Epilogue in Mountain and Field

Following a damp, leaf-strewn path northward into the valley, wild persimmons hung green above babbling streams. Rounding the final ridge, the whitewashed homes of Guojia Xiaozhuang Village appeared like an ink-wash painting. An elderly woman washed clothes by an ancient well, a yellow dog lazed by a wooden gate, and smoke from cooking fires intertwined with mountain mists. Looking back, Qingxin Temple glowed like cinnabar inlaid in jade—a testament to the "marvel of southern Dai," not in grandeur, but in the harmony of landscape and human spirit.

This visit to "Little Mount Tai" unfolded like a Ming Dynasty scroll: six centuries of devotion etched into stone steps, temple eaves piercing drifting clouds, and foothill villages breathing modern vitality into ancient artistry. At parting, the caretaker gifted me wild-sourced huangqin herbs. Their bitter-sweet aftertaste mirrored the mountain’s essence—a chill that mellows into warmth, steeped in the slow brew of time.

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岱岳区夏张镇以东,藏着一座低调而灵秀的小山——太平山。山不在高,有仙则名,这座海拔不足百米的小丘,却因半山腰处一座始建于明代的清心观,成为《泰安县志》中盛赞的“岱南一奇观”。清晨薄雾未散,我便踏上了这段寻古访幽的旅程。

山门初探:青石阶上的时光倒流

穿过王士店村东头的田埂,太平山如翠屏横卧眼前。沿着蜿蜒的青石阶拾级而上,两侧古柏虬枝盘曲,石缝间野菊簇簇,山风裹挟着松香沁入肺腑。行至半山,一座红墙灰瓦的道观豁然现身,门额上“清心观”三字已斑驳,却仍透着明正德年间的古拙之气。当地人称此处为“小泰山”,虽是微缩版的泰山格局,却别有一番超然世外的清净。

魁星点斗:文脉与信仰的交织

入观首见魁星阁,飞檐翘角间悬着铜铃,随风轻响如诵经文。阁内魁星塑像执笔点斗,足踏鳌头,虽经岁月侵蚀,眉眼间仍存凛然正气。明清时期,附近书生多来此祈求功名,如今香炉前仍可见学子留下的祈愿红绸。立于阁前远眺,山脚下的麦田如棋盘铺展,远处泰岱群峰若隐若现,恍惚间竟似站在天地交接的渡口。

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奶奶殿前:烟火人间与山水禅意

绕过古戏台残基,便是香火鼎盛的奶奶殿。殿内泰山奶奶慈目低垂,两侧眼光奶奶执明镜,送子娘娘抱婴童,三位女神在袅袅香烟中守护着人间夙愿。守观的老道沏来山茶,讲述着农历三月十五庙会的盛况:十里八乡的百姓举着花伞,抬着神像绕山祈福,山道上火龙般的队伍与星月同辉。此时殿外忽落细雨,檐角雨帘如珠,满山草木簌簌作响,仿佛众神以自然之语回应尘世祈愿。

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北麓归途:山水田园的诗意注脚

从观后小径北行,踩着湿漉漉的落叶深入山坳。野柿树挂满青果,山溪在石间叮咚跳跃,转过最后一道山梁,夏张镇郭家小庄村的青瓦白墙蓦然入画。村头老妪正在古井边浣衣,黄犬懒卧柴扉,炊烟与山雾缠绵升腾。回首太平山,雨后的清心观如嵌在翡翠中的朱砂,恍然懂得“岱南奇观”之誉不在恢弘,而在山水与人文相契的灵性。

此番小泰山之游,恰似打开一幅明代水墨长卷:六百年的香火在青石阶上沉淀,道观檐角挑着流转的云霭,而山脚下生生不息的村庄,正为这幅古画添着鲜活的当代注脚。临别时,守观人赠我山间采的黄芩,苦味回甘,恰如这方山水给人的滋味——初觉清冷,细品方知是岁月熬煮的温厚。

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