Today, November 20th, I find myself in the exact spot where I stood three months ago, preparing to embark on a journey from Moshi, Tanzania, to Mombasa, Kenya. That morning, I took an early bus, crossing the Taveta border, winding through a national park, and passing towns and wild landscapes.
The journey was mesmerizing. I love the rhythm of these long bus rides across Africa, where the wild beauty of nature alternates with bustling towns. The wild, however, always steals my heart—lush greenery, open skies, and the occasional sight of wildlife.
When the bus reached Mariakani, I hopped off and boarded a matatu—Kenya’s ubiquitous shared minibuses, crammed with passengers like sardines in a can. Though I’m not a fan of the overcrowding, it’s part of the African travel experience and culture.
The matatu took me to Kilifi, where I planned to use as a base for exploring Mombasa, Malindi, and Watamu. Yet, life had other plans. I spent the next few months solely in Kilifi, settling into routines. More on that in my next post, along with some photos.
Back to Moshi
Two days ago, I retraced my steps, leaving Kilifi at 6 a.m. in a matatu. I switched to another in Mombasa, heading toward Taveta. This leg of the trip crossed through the national park again, offering breathtaking scenery. At Taveta, I hired a boda-boda (motorbike taxi) to cross the border into Holili, Tanzania, before catching a dala-dala (Tanzania’s version of the matatu) to Moshi.
The entire trip cost me 1,900 KES (Kenyan Shillings), broken down as follows:
- Kilifi to Taveta: 1,500 KES
- Boda-boda from Taveta to Holili: 300 KES
- Dala-dala from Holili to Moshi: 2,000 TZS (around 100 KES).
By 5 p.m., I was back in Moshi. Walking into the same hostel I stayed at three months earlier, I asked for a bed. To my surprise, the receptionist said my old bed was free, making it feel like I’d never left.
A Border Encounter
Crossing borders in Africa is never dull. This time, the Kenyan officer flagged my frequent entries into Kenya over the past two years. He wasn’t happy, calling it "illegal" and grilling me with questions before stamping me out.
On the Tanzanian side, things were smoother—until the Kenyan officer crossed over and spoke to the Tanzanian border police. Suddenly, they had questions about my travel plans: where I was going, how long I’d stay, and what I’d do. Eventually, they validated my visa, and I was free to continue my journey.
My boda-boda driver, true to his word, waited for me and dropped me at the bus station in Holili, where the dala-dala was ready. For travelers, there’s also a small exchange booth here if you need to swap currencies.
Lessons in African Travel
One pro tip: book your tickets yourself. I learned this when my Moshi-to-Mombasa ticket cost me 35,000 TZS this time, 5,000 TZS cheaper than six months ago. Why? I went directly to the sales office. In Africa, it’s common for “helpful” locals to show you where to buy tickets, but they often arrange for you to be overcharged, pocketing the extra as their cut.
From wild landscapes to bustling markets, these journeys always offer a mix of beauty, adventure, and life lessons. Next up: my time in Kilifi and the routines that made it feel like home. Stay tuned!
