Like many "Pros", I am a self-taught photographer - always, photography itself is not complicated. Over the years I've gotten better at making out, but my style hasn't changed, I think that's important - everyone has their own style, and it's not something to be forced. But under each personal taste, there will be universal "rules" and tricks that photographers use to create beautiful images. Some may seem basic and some may seem something else but I hope there is something here for everyone because in the end these are just tips for shooting what I want to shoot, that you must make changes in your vision and your journey.
Gẹgẹbi ọpọlọpọ "Alebo", Mo jẹ oluyaworan ti ara ẹni - nigbagbogbo, fọtoyiya funrararẹ ko ni idiju. Ni awọn ọdun ti Mo ti dará si ni ṣiṣe, ṣugbọn aṣa mi ko yipada, Mo ro pe iyẹn ṣe pataki - gbogbo eniyan ni aṣa tirẹ, ati pe kii ṣe nkan lati fi agbara mu. Ṣugbọn labẹ itọwo tiara ẹni kookan, “awọn ofin” gbogbo agbaye yoo wa ati awọn ẹtan ti awọn olas aworan lo lati ṣẹda awọn woran lewa. Diẹ ninu awọn le dabi ipilẹ ati diẹ ninu awọn le dabi nkan miiran ṣugbọn Mo ni reti pe shunkan wa nibi fun gbogbo eniyan nitori ni ipari awọn wọnyi ni awọn imọran nikan fun titu ohun ti Mo fẹ lati iyawo ran, pe o gbọdọ ṣe awọn ayipada ninu iran rẹ ati irin-ajo rẹ.
Perhaps the least exciting things begin with the most important. The rule of thirds says that you should try to divide your image into three solid parts - have you ever had a round and half square (a natural thing to do) to go home and think it's missing? Well, the rule of thirds says that the sky should take up one third of the picture, the background the middle third, and the foreground a third. Digital cameras these days can help you a little and you can choose to always see 'Grid View' in your viewfinder - try it, it will make all the difference. It will also help you stabilize the weather.
Boya awọn phun moriwu ti o kere lọ bẹrẹ pẹlu pataki julọ. Fin ti awn ẹta sọ pe o yẹ ki o gbi yanju lati pin aworan rẹ si awọn ẹya ti o lagbara mẹta - Njẹ o ti ni yika ati idaji square (ohun adayeba lati ṣe) lati lọ si ile ati ro pe o nsọ nu? O dara, ofin ti awọn ida meta sọ pe ọrun yẹ ki o gba idamẹta aworan naa, abẹlẹ ni aarin kẹta, ati iwaji idamẹta. Awọn camera oni noba ni awọn ọjọ wọnyi le ṣe iran lọ mọ fun ọ diẹ ati pe o le yan lati rii nigbagbogbo 'Wiwo Grid' ninu oluwo rẹ - gbiyanju rẹ, yoo ṣe gbogbo iyatọ. Yoo tun ṣe iranlọwọ fun ọ lati ṣe iduroṣinṣin oju-ọjọ.
As you'll see in the examples below, it's important not to overdo it - I've deliberately included images that don't follow the rule of thirds to illustrate this point. that's it. it's good to give yourself a little something. Artistic competence In the age of cinema, that was more important than it is today. Film speed, in modern systems, defines the effect of the sensor on the light. The trade-off is simple: a low ISO value means that you have a soft image (without grain), but you also have to let the light hit the sensor for a long time (i.e. a long shutter speed). If you're shooting vertically, that's not a problem, but you'll notice how much faster the shutter speed is needed to freeze motion.
Gigabit iwọ yoo rii ninu awọn apẹẹrẹ ni isalẹ, o ṣe pataki lati maṣe bori rẹ - Mo ti mo ọmọ pẹlu awọn aworan ti ko tẹle ofin ti awọn ẹkẹta lati ṣe afihan aaye yii. o n niyen. o dará lati fun ara rẹ ni kan diẹ. Agbara iṣẹ ọna Ni ọjọ-ori ti sinima, iyẹn ṣe pataki ju ti o jẹ loni. Iyara fiimu, ni awọn ọna ṣiṣe ode oni, n ṣalaye ipa ti sensọ lori ina. Iṣowo-pipa jẹ rọrun: iye kekere ISO tumọ si pe o ni owaranai trọ (laisi ọko tun ni lati jẹ ki itna naa lu sensọ fun igba pipẹ (ie iyara oju-ọna gigun). Ti o ba n yin bọn ni inaro, iyẹn kii ṣe iṣoro, ṣugbọn iwọ yoo ṣe akiyesi bii iyara oju ti nilo lati di išipopada.
Digital sensors are getting better every year now and you can go from ISO 400 and above on a DSLR without seeing much of a difference. Sometimes I find myself trying to shoot as low as possible, but that doesn't really matter - in my opinion, it's better to shoot at the sweet spot of the lens rather than lowering the ISO. Obviously, in low light conditions, this is completely reversed. So you have a good understanding of the concept of ISO, aperture and film speed. It takes years to master all three automatically while shooting, so don't panic if everything seems confusing and confusing. However, putting it together is what makes the best photo you can take. So where to start? Well,
Awọn sensọ oni nọmba n dara si ni gbogbo ọdun ni bayi ati pe o le lọ lati ISO 400 ati loke lori DSLR laisi ri iyatọ pupọ. Nigba miiran Mo rii ara mi ni igbiyanju lati titu bi kekere bi o ti ṣee, ṣugbọn iyẹn ko ṣe pataki - ni ero mi, o dara lati titu ni aaye didùn ti lẹnsi kuku ju sisọ ISO silẹ. O han ni, ni awọn ipo ina kekere, eyi ti yipada patapata. Nitorinaa o ni oye ti o dara ti imọran ti ISO, iho ati iyara fiimu. Yoo gba awọn ọdun lati ṣakoso gbogbo awọn mẹta laifọwọyi lakoko titu, nitorinaa maṣe bẹru ti ohun gbogbo ba dabi iruju ati airoju. Sibẹsibẹ, fifi papọ jẹ ohun ti o jẹ ki fọto ti o dara julọ ti o le ya. Nitorina nibo ni lati bẹrẹ? O dara,
that's how I play things, in order in my head. If my subject is lit from behind or from the side, then I will expose the part of the body where the sunlight is (a good balance between bright planets and snow and the dark side of the subject). Look at his helmet that will always have sunlight on it - I put my little red square in the corner and half press the shutter button, which closes the eyes and exposes. Then I can cut my shot and run. The beauty of digital is that it allows us to immediately see what we are doing - check what you just drew. If it's too dark, choose the central area that has a little shadow and the image will be bright - if it's bright, choose the area with snow. One general rule is that you should always underexpose rather than overexpose - Photoshop
iyẹn ni MO ṣe ṣe awọn nkan, ni aṣẹ ni ori mi. Ti koko-ọrọ mi ba tan lati lẹhin tabi lati ẹgbẹ, lẹhinna Emi yoo fi han apakan ti ara nibiti imọlẹ oorun wa (iwọntunwọnsi ti o dara laarin awọn aye aye didan ati yinyin ati ẹgbẹ dudu ti koko-ọrọ). Wo ibori rẹ ti yoo nigbagbogbo ni imọlẹ oorun lori rẹ - Mo fi igun pupa kekere mi si igun ati idaji tẹ bọtini tiipa, eyiti o pa oju ati fi han. Nigbana ni mo le ge mi shot ati ki o sure. Ẹwa ti oni-nọmba ni pe o gba wa laaye lati wo ohun ti a n ṣe lẹsẹkẹsẹ - ṣayẹwo ohun ti o kan fa. Ti o ba ṣokunkun ju, yan agbegbe aarin ti o ni ojiji kekere kan ati pe aworan yoo jẹ imọlẹ - ti o ba ni imọlẹ, yan agbegbe pẹlu yinyin. Ofin gbogbogbo kan ni pe o yẹ ki o ma ṣe afihan nigbagbogbo kuku ju iṣafihan pupọju - Photoshop
